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CCC Unit Causing Battery Drain E60 - Printable Version

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CCC Unit Causing Battery Drain E60 - DeAtH - 10-05-2024

Hello Everyone!

I'm having a riddle with my E60 2006 523i where I found out that the battery drain is about (1.14 Amps) and battery dies in 2 days,

I found the following symptoms after sleep mode (30 mins):
1- Ignition Start/Stop Button Light always stays ON (with a little flicker between now and then and when it flickers, drain goes up to 7Amps and drops to 1.14)
2- Windows Control Lock green LED stays ON (If turned on before sleep mode).
3- Heard noise coming from CCC unit, like a reset sound (a buzzing happens for 2 seconds, after few moments it buzz again for 2 seconds, like a restart!)
and that occurs every 5 or 10 mins (only after entering sleep mode).
4- I checked my Fuse boxes and they all turned fine, except F29 in gloves compartment after I took it out the drain dropped to 0.00 (weirdly I'm not so sure about this but it has something to do with the KGM).
5- I have replaced the battery without registration (old one is 88A Lead-Acid with the same type), pretty sure its a mistake since I didn't know that my Car needs a 80A or 90A that must be registered,, but I'm sure its not the reason for a 1.14Amps drain with the IBS.

Also, I in attachments there's a overview of my modules, try not to mind the amount of faults, and CDC being removed from the car (I guess previous owner had no idea)
and the CCC unit showed "Head unit not coded correctly" error, luckily using NCS I changed some code options in M-ASK to remove the message, probably not fixing the main issue.

I ask for the community help for this, because I already visited my local dealers, turns out I had more experience than them leaving me with no solution..


RE: CCC Unit Causing Battery Drain E60 - DeAtH - 10-18-2024

Update: Since no one has tried any help..

I did a parasitic draw test that mesured current amps while car is asleep (I used ÎŜ†Ä to power down the car and locked all doors) and it draws 2.57 A in sleep mode.

I Also did a DC voltage measure on each fuse in trunk, glovebox.. reading each fuse voltage while the car is asleep, below are the results:
Trunk Fuse Box:
1. F87: 2.7 mV
2. F54: 19 mV (rear window de-fogger)
3. F58: 9.3 mV (rear wriper relay) -- I don't have a rear wiper
4. F62: 70 mV
(I disconnect all 4 fuses, parasitic draw test holds on 2.57 A, like nothing changed).
Glovebox Fuse Box:
1. F29: 19.5 mV
2. F33: 7.7~11 mV
3. F34: 3.9 mV
4. F41: 1.7 mV (0.3 Amps)
5. F17: 0.1 Amps

I know that from your prespective this might not be helpful because you don't see the car in person, but let me make it as clear as possible:
1. Parasitic Draw Test gives 2.57 Amps in Sleep mode.
2- Disconnecting F33, F34, F41 all together drops Amp draw to 0.60 A
3- Disconnecting F29 drops car amp while asleep to 0.20 A.. only that fuse alone.


Basically, F29 is KGM (Basic-gateway module) & F34 is CCC
  • When car is asleep, I hear CCC powering noise like its restarting every while (IN SLEEP MODE) which lead me thinking that I have a faulty CCC, but my CCC is working fine.. (I had head-unit not coded correctly error on CCC before not sure if its related)
  • In Center console control panel, my passenger seat heater isn't working when I press it, my PDC button led keeps flashing because PDC module is missing from the trunk (is it related to F29?)
  • In Instrument Cluster (KOMBI), when I unlock the car, the mini lcd between the gauges flashes light with the hazards for an instant second, I don't know if its normal or not, but I don't suspect it to be an issue.
Below is the diagram of F29,F33,F34,F41 .. hoping it can help you understand my problem:
[Image: f29_2ab29b9288fee7eac8cef72cb9d42363df380808.png]
[Image: f33_2__3c364b4818d3672bed607d04e88fdca1e07e85ac.png]
[Image: f33_0f771f6db7c3b60995cdaf4f96622a2eb01621aa.png]
[Image: f34_c419b2f9f4849f0db3728078a7e11edad0de42c0.png]


I hope I explained this correctly, please ask me anything if I'm mistaken, I really need help for this.....

If someone can only confirm that if my CCC is causing the KGM to stay awake, having the 2.57 Amps draw...


RE: CCC Unit Causing Battery Drain E60 - Rusu - 10-19-2024

mmmm aceiasi problema , doar ca la mine a aparut dupa ce am schimbat butucul usi soferului , da imi consuma bateria ,butonul de start ramane aprins , unitatea ccc are impulsuri iar dimineata ramanea fara baterie , eu am refuzat sa schimb bateria pentru ca este originala a masinii si o am de 10 ani , norocul meu este ca nu imi mai merge telecomanda masini si trebuie sa inchid usa de pe butonul masini apoi sa ies afara din masina apoi sa inchid cu cheia la butuc masina doar asa merge si tot asa o deblochez prima oara usa soferului cu cheia apoi apa pe butonul de deblocare al masinii sa o descui , am observat si functioneaza treaba asta nu mai am probleme cu bateria si se sting tot in masina , dupa ce inchid usile din interior apoi cand dau sa deschid usa sa ies afara dupa ce deschid usa pur si simplu toate luminile bordului se sting si butonul de start bordul tot , apoi inchid usa si o inchid cu cheia , nu am cautat rezolvarea pentru ca am dat numai de ciobani care voiau sa schimbe bateria , piese , sau sa repare piese care cred ei ca ar fi defect etc , chestii care necesitau bani dar nu rezolvare si numi place sa umble undeva doar pentru ca banuieste el ceva , in cazul meu cred ca problema este de la butucul usi cred  ,, bmw x1 e84 2010


RE: CCC Unit Causing Battery Drain E60 - Yandoo - 12-29-2024

Hi, any new findings on your situation? I'm having a similar problem were I bought an E61 with some aftermarket Bluetooth kit that keeps emitting "feedback sound" even after I turn off the car and it discharged my battery. After I removed that kit I hear no sound from the speakers anymore but the battery keeps discharging. I don't know where to look since I never owned a BMW before.


RE: CCC Unit Causing Battery Drain E60 - DeAtH - 12-29-2024

Hello,

No update on my situation, during sleep-mode I hear the CCC unit making noises, also ÎŜ†Ä is showing (k-can line fault) on a lot of units.. made me thinking this is too hard to fix by myself and I'm still looking for a good technician who can fiix this for me.

As for your situation, since your car has custom features like bluetooth kit, if this bluetooth kit was working normally before, I'd simply just buy the same bluetooth kit because yours is faulty now (if that is the case).
If you removed it and no sound from speakers, well I hope the previous owner didn't add custom amplifiers or tweaked your CCC unit (full package with the bluetooth kit)
You can start by doing a parasitic draw test after putting the car in sleep mode (30 mins after locking all doors) then checking the fuses in the gloves compartment one by one, try to trace the amp leakage.
If you are willing to start investigating urself, you must have the patience for it.